Saturday 14 November 2009

Jodphur

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Camels, draft-buffalo, sacred cows and hairy-backed pigs wander the streets of the regional capital, Jodphur. The city is blue though the towering fort which commands the high ground is the colour of blood on sand. The houses of the old town are painted varying shades of cobalt, a pigment which serves as a mosquito-deterent, an advantage in malaria-territory. The markets are astonishingly colourful since Rajistan’s women dress in deep scarlet and yellow, reflecting the sun.

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Friday 6 November 2009

Rajisthan

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Rajasthan, the region to the west of Delhi which runs up to the borders of Pakistan, is one of the hottest places on the planet - take it from me, I’ve just got back. How the human race copes with heat is of increasing interest to us northerners who, as the icecap melts and the planet warms up, are likely to find our island kingdom, well, camel-country.
One can get used to camels, particularly when attempting to cross the sandy bits of the earth. Camels are, as it happens, a speciality of the desert kingdoms of Rajistan, of which the really empty part is known as the Marwar, the land of death, a reputation which keeps the population low and the ratio of people to camels unusually high. As you might imagine, there’s not much to eat and still less to drink. For the villagers of the Marwar, mostly vegetarian Hindus, everything depends on the monsoon rains. When the rains come, crops flourish and everyone eats. When they fail, the government provides famine-rations and one person in every family has to go out to work on the roads.

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Saturday 31 October 2009

Chapattis

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The domestic cooking of Rajistan is a communal affair. Most things, with the exception of a few complicated sweets made with milk-curds, are prepared in-house. Vegetarian dishes - dals and curries - are made daily in advance by the women of the household under the supervision of the senior matron.
At mealtimes, small bowls of the prepared dishes are set on the table while one of the women rolls and cooks the flatbreads, the only freshly-prepared element of the meal.
Flatbreads - rotis, chappatis, puris - can be made of a variety of milled grains worked into a dough, broken into egg-sized pieces and rolled on a small round board with a rolling pin into thin rounds. After a prelimary gentle baking on the griddle, these are set in an open flame to puff and blister. A new batch is provided for those at table as soon as the previous batch has been eaten.
Women don't usually sit with the men. In the villages when food is limited, this can mean the women go hungry.
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